Last Update: 5 February 2004
My interest in Japan began as a young child. My parents had this embroidered picture of Mount Fuji which had been given to them by a Japanese couple who had met in one of the Japanese “detention centers” during World War II. While working for the U.S. Navy, I had the opportunity to spend three years (1986-1989) at the Yokosuka Navy Base which is located between Tokyo and Kamakura on the western coast of Japan. There are many things about Japanese life which we as “foreigners” found very interesting and so unlike our Western ideas! For example, most Japanese would not consider selling anything old – they just throw it out. As a result, Westerners have access to many beautiful artifacts and antiques.
The complexity of the colors, patterns and variety of Japanese textiles and clothing was one area that fascinated me — and I tried to collect an assortment representing various styles and techniques. I hope this colorful assortment brightens your day! For further information contact Valerie Hilliard via e-mail or phone 540-499-2301.
The items in each of these photos are described from left to right in the captions below. These descriptions were posted with the items at the exhibit. Some of the details described cannot be seen in these photos. The intention here is to give the flavor of the exhibit while maintaining a site that will load relatively quickly. Photos by John Sweet
Boy’s Day Banner – (nobori) Boy’s Day (May 5th) is celebrated with these large banners hung from bamboo poles in rural areas. They are supposed to inspire boys with the manly virtues of courage and persistence, as exemplified by the ancient samurai in full battle dress with their horses. These cotton banners are stenciled and dyed, with the faces and other details painted by hand.
Carp Wind Sock – (koi) These giant carp are another Boy’s Day tradition. The carp is considered the “king of river fish” because of its ability to swim upstream, showing a determination to overcome obstacles. Originally, these carp were made of paper, and there are some which are hand-painted on cotton, but these nylon versions are more readily available.
Shichigosan kimono – Shichi (7) go (5) san (3) is a Shinto children’s festival celebrated on November 15th. Girls, ages three and seven, and boys, age five, are taken to the local shrine to give thanks and invoke future blessings. Notice how all of the children’s kimono are hand stitched to fit the intended wearer.
Shichigosan kimono – This kimono for a three-year-old depicts several traditional Japanese playthings including fans and kites, pinwheels, drums, origami cranes, pull toys and kokeshi dolls.
Child’s Yukata – The yukata is a summer, informal kimono made of cotton. This yukata is indigo-dyed, then the colors were hand-painted onto the fabric after the resist (white areas) was removed.
Wedding Kimono – (uchikake) This silk kimono has the placement of the design carefully arranged so that no part of the design will be covered by the obi, or wide sash which is worn over it. The design contains several mon including the mandarin orange, the crane, bamboo (representing constancy, integrity and honor), the hexagon pattern represents the tortoise shell (10,000 years of life!), and the butterfly symbolizing elegance.
Obi – The wide sash worn as a “belt” with a kimono serves several purposes. It allows for adjusting the length of the kimono by folding the extra fabric underneath it. Additionally, it serves as a sort of purse to tuck small items in at the waist. There are over 500 different ways to tie the bow on the back of an obi. The shape of the bow is determined by the occasion, the age, and the marital status of the wearer.
Formal Obi – These four examples of formal obi display a variety of colors, patterns and textures in their woven silk designs. Obi are always the same length – the extra fabric is folded and concealed by the sash itself. A layer of hemp runs the length of the obi to provide stiffness and shape to the elaborate bows. The obi are hanging on a kimono stand (iko).
Worker’s Indigo-dyed Jacket – (hanten) Different trades or companies commission the dying of their own design into the worker’s jackets. First a rice paste is applied using a mulberry paper stencil (kata-zome) to the areas which are not to receive color, then the fabric is dipped into the indigo dye several times to achieve the dark blue color.
Quilt Cover – (futonji) This child’s quilt cover depicts spring with the cherry blossoms and origami (folded paper cranes) theme. The variations in shades of blue indicated that those areas were covered with a rice paste resist during part of the dying process.
Yuzen Kimono – Yuzen refers to the process by which the design is drawn on the silk, then hand painted. The thin white lines between the colors and the overall background color are characteristics of this type of design. The areas of the design which appear as small white circles with a dot of color in the center are each hand-tied to achieve this effect when the fabric is dyed. This kimono is also overlaid with embroidery.
Wedding Kimono – (uchikake) This silk kimono has a pattern woven into the background material and is then further enhanced with heavy embroidery. The phoenix (bird) is a popular design which originated in China. The phoenix is said to be a very “picky” bird, which rests only in the paulownia tree, and eats only bamboo.
Gift Wrap – Furoshiki, is a square piece of cloth used for wrapping lunch, a gift, or anything else that we would put in either a backpack or a shopping bag. Special occasions such as weddings call for silk wraps; cottons and synthetics are for everyday use. This is a new example; the fabric is printed rather than dyed. The red design is a calligraphic figure but it is also a pond with willow hanging over the left edge, fish, a bridge and water plants.
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Left Photo – Kimono are all the same size. The fabric is always woven in 13" widths, then four widths are sewn together to make the body of the garment, and two more widths create each sleeve. Due to this standardized type of construction, the fabric can be used like a painter’s canvas, with the placement of the design shown to best advantage on the garment.
Women’s Formal Kimono – Older women wear kimono with shorter sleeves and more subdued colors than younger women. A formal kimono is distinguished by the mon, or family crest, which is found in five places (two on the front, three on the back) at the shoulder line. The mon on this kimono represents wisteria which is widely admired in Japan. Note the subdued use of embroidery in the center of the flowers and on the crane’s heads.
Right Photo – Nagoya Obi – This style of obi is pre-folded to simplify dressing. The three displayed in the obi basket are decorated with flowers embroidered on a silk background.
Informal Obi – (sakiori) These obi are hand woven in a ragweave technique using silk and cotton remnants of old kimono. Informal obi are for wearing with the yukata, or cotton summer kimono. The obi are standing on a lacquered tray table. These trays were used as individual tables while seated on the floor to eat.